Chilean Sauvignon Blanc is on the rise thanks to two coastal wine regions

Casablanca and Leyda are acquiring a reputation as producers of world-class Sauvignon Blanc—some of which rival that of the iconic expression from New Zealand. But at the same time, they have identified unique characteristics of their specific terroir that are site-specific expressions with a true sense of place.

In these two valleys, located along the Pacific coastline, the Humboldt current, morning fog and granitic soils help shape flavor profiles of the wines produced.

Adding to the quality of these wines are the organic, biodynamic and regenerative practices utilized by an increasing number of growers—especially as climate change continues to evolve and affect the region. They affirm that this is the best way to face this challenge and, at the same time, make better wines.

Casablanca

Camanchaca is the local word for the fog that rolls in from the Pacific and covers the land in the early morning. As it’s blown away by the coldwater Humboldt current that originates from Antarctica and sweeps through coastal lands, one can spy the Coastal Mountain range to the east and the expansive surrounding valley that is Casablanca.

“Casablanca is a cool-climate coastal valley influenced by the Humboldt cold-water current that, in this section of the continent, cools the wind that blows from west to east,” says Gonzalo Bertelsen, winemaker at Veramonte. “The mornings are usually cloudy. At noon ocean breezes blow off the fog and the sun shines over Casablanca.”

Sauvignon Blanc, a variety sensitive to heat and light, thrives well in this environment. The valley’s lower temperatures and overcast days allow for a longer ripening period, positively influencing grape chemistry and thus the resulting wines: “Natural acidity is higher, pH is lower and because the production of sugar is low, the grapes make more balanced wines,” says Bertelsen.

Sauvignon Blanc wines from the valley offer an aromatic nose and flavors of citrus and tropical fruit alongside elevated acidity. There is ripeness, but also freshness. “The soils in this region are older than those of the Andes Mountains and are composed of granite. This also provides a sense of minerality and tension to our coastal wines,” he adds.

Bertelsen further equates the region’s high quality wine production to the ability of growers to adhere to sustainable viticultural practices. For its part, Veramonte has certified all its vineyards as organic and, starting with the 2023 vintage, wines will also be certified biodynamic.

For the last decade, Casablanca has become increasingly affected by drought, meaning it’s now more difficult to access water for irrigation. In a region where dry farming isn’t always an option, this poses a real threat to producers who are focused on high-yield grape growing. “Growing grapes for massive wine production will be unfeasible in Casablanca,” says Julio Bastías, head winemaker at Matetic Vineyards. “The future lies in small wine production with focus on high quality wines.”

For the winemaking team at Matetic Vineyards, achieving quality amid climate change means farming organically and biodynamically, as these viticultural practices allow their soils to capture and retain more water throughout the growing season, meaning less total irrigation is required.

“We believe that good balance and the best fruit can be achieved by farming organically,” agrees Bertelsen. “Farming Sauvignon Blanc organically improves canopy health by allowing better ventilation. Since the canopy is balanced, the fruit-set process is healthy, too. The berries are smaller and concentrate more flavors.” As a result, the winemaker confirms that Sauvignon Blanc wines made with organic grapes “have more complexity and more aromatic layers.”

Leyda valley

Because of its proximity to the Pacific, Leyda Valley experiences even cooler temperatures than Casablanca and, as a result, produces Sauvignon Blanc wines with vibrant acidity and a citric and herbal character that makes them more similar to New Zealand wines than those of its coastal neighbor.

However, resembling the wines of New Zealand isn’t necessarily what winemakers are aiming for. “Why follow a recipe that is not ours?” says Viviana Navarrete from Viña Leyda. “As winemakers, our goal is to make wines that talk about the place they come from.”

“Sauvignon from Leyda have a more austere nose than those of Marlborough, but they are very elegant,” she continues. “They are herbaceous with aromas of fresh cut grass, cedar, vervain and intense citric notes such as lime, grapefruit and tangerine followed by salt.”

On the palate, these wines have a lasting and crunchy acidity. “This is a result of cloudy skies that stop sunlight from hitting the grape skins directly, preserving natural acidity,” explains Navarrete.

Diego Rivera, winemaker at Viña Garcés Silva, explains that the region’s soil—not just climate—plays an important role in the wines’ vivacity as well. Soils with more clay inclusion “tend to produce vigorous Sauvignon Blanc with more herbal and citric character.” Soils with a larger presence of rock near the surface produce more austere expressions with subtle fruit flavors. “In these wines the focus is on the texture,” he says, referring to the distinct minerality found in the wines produced from these areas.”

Viña Garcés Silva is practicing regenerative farming with the goal of improving soil health and biodiversity—creating an environment with more life both amid the vines and within the soil system. “This is very important not only because having living soils keeps our vineyards in good health, but because it benefits the ecosystem as a whole in the short and long term,” says Rivera.

Rivera confirms that, thanks to their conscientious viticultural practices, grapes are ripening more slowly and evenly. “We have seen more complexity in the wines.”

Rivera also comments that the number of producers in the region incorporating sustainable farming methods— including organic, biodynamic and regenerative methods—is increasing. Given the benefits to grape quality, the resulting wines and, most importantly, the environment, he hopes that this kind of viticulture will become a characteristic and a standard of Leyda wine culture.

This article originally appeared in the February/March 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Read full article at Wine Enthusiast.